A Baggot street pub par excellence, and very much on the 'Kavanagh trail' – indeed, two busts of the heads (courtesy of sculptor John Coll) of Paddy Kavanagh and Brendan Behan stand guard by the entrance to rub in the heritage, a onetime staple drinking spot of two such self-styled 'giants'. An authentic snug called ‘Con’s Snug’ named after Con Houlihan stands completely closed off for privacy.

These days, it's ever more on the costlier side and, given the increasing emphasis on food and barely concealed contempt of the solitary drinker in the game for liquid alone, could well get gobbled up by the ever-more fashionable 'gastritis restaurant' syndrome. Still, it retains a calming atmosphere and the window seat offers a delicious view of comings and goings galore. Large statues of ladies with lamps light the way to the backyard beer-garden, complete with fountains - which can also be entered via a hidden alley, and has the merit of being a sun trap and an enclave for the secretive. (It's also a Charlie Chawke pub, but don't let that put you off...)

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