Worth paying the whopping entrance fee (and racing through the multileveled brewery tour) if only to sample the stunning panoramic view of the city obtainable on the topmost floor, three hundred and sixty degrees washed down with a glass of Guinness straight from the source. One's coupon entitles one to a complementary pint of said stout – we got lucky with a chatty barman (seemingly relieved to be talking to non-tourists for once) who gave us some three or four extra servings each, nice and subtle on the sly, like.

Past visitors include Conan O'Brien, Tom Cruise and Prince Philip. The smell of the barley and the hops can be obtained from miles away, the succulent fragrance wafted downriver by the wind, giving any potential sniffers quite the wrong idea. 'Olfactory advertising' – the future, Mr. Gittes!

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