155) Cleary (J. & M.) of Amiens Street, D1

Cleary’s is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin and with it comes a loaded history. To imbibe here is like sliding the cheek of an arse onto a seat of a time-machine and journeying back in pubtime - very little has changed here since it was built in the late 1800’s. Nevertheless, an alteration to the exterior is unfortunate: ‘Richies Barbers’ now occupies the entire left side of the façade.

This was a regular waterhole for Irish Republicans Michael Collins and Harry Boland who would meet to discuss their plans for the 1916 Rising. Pictures of many Republicans can still be found on the walls, as well as a large aerial photo of Dublin city centre. A brief scene from the 1996 movie Michael Collins was shot here, as were scenes from The Commitments and Term of Trial (starring Laurence Olivier). Formerly known as the Signal House, and as such  it’s mentioned in Ulysses.

As we stopped in for a few reasonably priced pints we noticed some skilfully crafted sections that partially divide the predominantly all-male bar. The room is long, dark, and narrow. Not many know that there’s an adjoining lounge which is seldom used and is enormous, the (modern, camouflaged) exterior to which can be found on Foley Street. Because it sits directly under the Railway Bridge on Amiens Street, the original proprietors were not charged for electricity as the bridge was responsible for blocking most of their natural sunlight. As a result, they could let their lights burn as though giving a ball. The place was ablaze with electric light, with no fear whatever of making the electric light company rich. We’ve enjoyed several pints of porter here. Sam has also sipped here with Larissa Vilhena, the latter being the only lady in the house.

A tipple under the tracks

Update as of June 2019: J. & M. Cleary is for sale. It has been put on the market for €2.75 million. One hopes potential buyers will consider its history before going gastritis.

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