239) Madigan's of North Earl Street, D1

Located not far from the James Joyce statue (long since waggishly nicknamed the 'prick with the stick', this pub was reputedly a regular haunt of the writer in his younger Dublin days – and the main lounge is known as the 'Joyce Lounge'. The façade has a mosaic sign that calls the pub a ‘Spirit Bar.’ A large and unusual porch between the main door and the door to the lounge is of interest as it features a spiral staircase down into the belly of the beast, and photos of Joyce and his family are scattered about the walls. Inside, a large stained-glass partition incorporates a clock with the sign: ‘TEMPUS FUGIT.’

According to Dublin historian Gerry Cooley [1] there’s a riddle which goes: ‘when is a snug not a snug?’ The answer: ‘when it’s in Madigan’s in North Earl Street.’ This false snug is a very cosy area which seats a party of just two. Both must sit facing each other with just a small table between them. Originally this snug was a cash box (or counting house) where the proprietor would count out the money at the end of each night. Nowadays it provides a semi-private space, there’s no door or hatch to the bar but it is snug, and it has a large photo of Dublin in the rare old times with a superimposed ‘prick with his stick’ - Mr. James Joyce himself.

Not much of the 1900s ambience remains, though the stained-glass windows of Harry Clarke are picturesque. Much loud and obnoxious music is regularly played, alternately live or piped depending on the day and the hour, and much bacon and cabbage is consumed, with noxious farts consuming the limited air in consequence.

FOOTNOTE

[1] For a short video featuring Gerry on Dublin’s snugs see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPPcvqTbLVc

DISCLAIMER: The contents of this blog represent personal opinions and perspectives only. Read more.