77) The Gravediggers /John Kavanagh's of Prospect Square, Phibsborough, D9
Curiously nestled in the middle of an otherwise sleepy housing estate and standing attached to the woebegone walls of Glasnevin Cemetery. One of the finest pubs in Dublin – ignore the rather banal extension where a food buffet dominates an anodyne interior, an appeasement to the hungry tourists who arrive by the bus load. In the old bar, it's the old world, going strong since 1833 and currently in its eighth generation of family management [1]. No TV, no music, no WiFi, no frills, no nonsense. Wood, wood, wood. Saloon-style swinging doors and a dearth of stools at the counter, encouraging one to stand and lean as in olden days (remember kids - chairs can kill). In its glory days a fine snug could be obtained and rumour has it they’re in the process of reopening the small room for folk once again. Glory be! The nickname derives from its proximity to the cemetery – thirsty gravediggers had only to reach through a slot to obtain pint-sized relief. On fine days, people spill over outside, where children play on the green and smokers smoke. But patrons must be mindful that the pub remains a family home with mother and sons dwelling above the bar.
A scene shot in the pub from the 1970 movie Quackser Fortune Has A Cousin In The Bronx
When once we arrived after a long wet walk and drunkenly called for a Beamish instead of a Guinness, forgetting momentarily where we were (the pub is deeply famed for its quality of Guinness which when poured puts even cream to shame), the barman gasped, doubletook, and with weak knees had to rest against the bar - he probably hadn’t heard the ‘B’ word in the whole course of his experience (it’s not bollox). Needless to say, we enjoyed their very fine Guinness stout for the remainder of the night.
A garrulous ex-guard, stationed at the counter with a sober friend (who was due to drive him home and who filled us in on the former's life-changing and perspective-altering heart condition), once let us in on the sad backstory of the mysterious Addison Lodge (see entry for the said sad Lodge).
A range of musicians have been spotted sipping here such as best buddies Eddie Vedder and Glen Hansard. Also, various films have been shot in Kavanagh's over the years, including Young Cassidy (a mostly fictional Sean O'Casey biopic), Michael Collins (Liam Neeson stars as the titular subject) and Quackser Fortune Has A Cousin In The Bronx (a quirky comedy starring the late Gene Wilder and the late Margot Kidder). Tippler’s Tip: in keeping with its brave refusal to take up technology - it’s cash only. For further information on The Gravedigger's, see Bill Barich's book A Pint of Plain, which contains invaluable interviews with the sixth generation proprietor, the late Eugene Kavanagh (a barman philosopher, marathon runner and self-described 'arch bollocks').
Iconic Gene Wilder shot
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